Let's be honest with one another; Climbers for the most part plan all their vacations around climbing. When I was young growing up in the "country" as we called it, my best friend had an unruly Siberian Husky. That dog would sit and stare out the closed screen slider for hours upon hours waiting for anyone to make the mistake of opening the door with him near it. In a split second the dog would be out the door running free never to look back. Those days of chasing the dog all over the countryside seem like a lifetime ago now. We were kids driven crazy trying to understand why this dog who had it so good living with his family would run away? And keep on running, with no intention whatsoever of coming back once free.

Climbers are very similar to that dog. Even with all the seriousness of everyday life in this civilized world, we are always looking at that screen door waiting for the opportunity to make a break for it. Where are we going? What can we climb? How long can we extend our trip? We maximize every second of every day for the freedom only found only in the hills.

Which brings me to the subject of this blog post, and more importantly, why we chose this area of Mexico to build SouthernXposure as the premiere guide service South of the Border.

What do you do to maximize your days off when not climbing with us?

Of course the climbing is stellar, and the towns surrounding the cliffs are exquisite (please browse through our testimonials written by visiting climbers), but what is nearby to keep the psyche high when your muscles need a break between the crack climbing clinic, the overhanging tuft, or ascending the big wall?

When sitting still on a rest day just isn't going to happen, you have options.

Here is a list of a few of the best attractions absolutely worth a visit on an Active Rest Day~

http://escondidoplace.com/

The thermal pools just outside San Miguel de Allende are pristine. Get up early and take a ride to one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Mexico. Walk the streets, visit the many art galleries, eat brunch, then soak in the hot springs all afternoon. These thermal pools are fun for the entire family. Don't just take our word on how extraordinary the town and hot springs are to visit, do your research as well. What a divine way to spend an active rest day.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teotihuacan

Seriously cool for the entire family. Have you ever been to ancient ruins? Any pyramids? Any architectural marvels of this size and magnitude? Teotihuacan is a mind blowing experience for Dad, Mom, and the kids. What's better is we can provide a Social Anthropologist we are friends with to meet you on sight. He will spend the day explaining anything Teotihuacan.

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/teot4/hd_teot4.htm

The Great Goddess and Tlaloc. The interrelation of these two is about as interesting as an active rest day can get.....

Again, take the time and research this ancient Mesoamerican City.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monarch_Butterfly_Biosphere_Reserve

Take a day and explore this mountainous region of Mexico. The three hour drive is best done in the early hours of the morning. Driving through this high altitude farming region is amazing. The mountain views, and working farms on the way to the biosphere make for incredible photos. Once in the reserve set your feet loose and have an active rest day hiking like no other.

SouthernXposure provides an experience of a lifetime. We guide the most beautiful areas on the Northern Continent, and provide our guests with a litany of choices to fill up the hours, and days when the body has had enough of the vertical world.

We wholeheartedly believe that how you spend your time when not being guided is as important as when we are sharing a rope together.

If you have any questions drop us an email, or give us a call. We are always available.

Come and explore Mexico with a clear view of the SouthernXposure.

Climbing is much more than a person tying-in to a rope and climbing vertically. That is surely the task at hand (and foot so to speak). But at the other end of the rope, as any 'climber' pushing their limits knows, is another. This "significant other" in the partnership is [always] the hero within the story. I write this knowingly for if there is a "story" to be told, chances are you are telling it because your belayer caught your fall, and kept you safe from catastrophe like it was their job, which it 100% is.

In the realm of the climber there is an old adage~ a good belayer will always have someone to climb with, but a bad belayer will never have anyone to climb with.

This aphorism couldn't be any closer to the truth. Sooner or later everyone witnesses that bad belayer. This is the person while someone is on lead has their hand off the brake. Or a person you see so concerned with their phone that they aren't watching and have a huge belly of slack out lengthening the fall for their partner. Or worse yet, the belayer sitting on the ground while their partner is cruxing out with the gear below their feet, looking at a huge whip, while dip-shit down below is taking a siesta. These are the people that find themselves without partners, and for good reason.

So, with that said it is easy to distinguish between a carelessly bad belayer versus an uncomfortable person paying attention giving an awkward belay.

The number one reason a leader gets a sub-standard belay from a competent belayer is unfamiliarity with the friction devise. With that said; anyone reading this blog with belayer's anxiety (BTSD) know it can most likely be attributed to belaying your partner on-lead with a Gri-gri before understanding the standard practices of the device. This one little change from the familiarity of a stitch plate to a brake assist device will give a competent leader, and his stressed out belayer an equal case of IBS.

Untold numbers of seasoned traditional climbers have the same apprehension when climbing at a sport crag where all is needed is a double set of dog-bones, and the indomitable will to hang on. For the traditionally traditional climber's belayer, the speed at which their partner pulls that rope and clips could put a cramp in anyones anal tract. The move from the ease of an ATC to the rope size fickle nature of a mechanical devise just sours the experience, and sometimes the on-sight. As it is sooooo easy to short-rope the leader at the worst possible moment that new born belayers to the seasoned vet resist the device. And this aversion promptly locates fine belayers outside of their comfort zone.

Fear not, as below (with credit going to Petzl) is an instructional video that will (with practice) help melt away any stress related to learning the proper technique of lead belaying with a Gri-gri.

This video is mostly driven towards the safe procedure on how to keep the brake hand active, which plays directly into the mechanics of the device. This video is basically the manufacturers recommendation on how not to screw up, but doesn't delve into why the Gri-gri is so good.

People frequently ask why the Gri-gri on lead belay is so far superior to all other non brake assist belay devices.

The answer is simple. In life it all comes down to safety. Used properly the Gri-gri with the brake assist is a second line of defense incase of physical trauma where the belayer could be momentarily incapacitated. The gri-gri will simply add a second layer of protection preventing the leader's ground fall.

Another reason the Gri-gri is extremely valuable is the devise helps assist the belayer while the leader ascends the line after a fall on severely overhanging territory. As the leader climbs/pulls the rope to move back toward their high point on the route, slack comes down and needs to be retrieved on the belayers end. Pulling that rope through as the climber ascends without a Gri-gri is extremely taxing, and dangerous. The rope pinch on the Gri-gri while yarding in slack allows for greater reduction in brake hand fatigue, while adding a level of protection with the brake assist. The piece of mind for the leader knowing their next attempt won't end up as a ground fall from their belayer being fatigued is a game changer.

SouthernXposure Guides use the Gri-gri as a teaching tool. Everyone who spends time with us become socialized with this wonderful device in every facet of its existence. Like a tool in the work chest where being better than proficient adds a level of competency that translates into security for everyone involved. Belay, single rope rappel, top-side management, as a back-up under an ascender, the Gri-gri performs.

The secret to moving from outside one's comfort zone to being cool as a cucumber is as simple as understanding the dynamics of the leader fall, and feeding ample rope while your climber is clipping into the protection. There are two inter related correlations to understand here. If you aren't falling, you aren't climbing hard enough. Secondly; if you're thinking about the falling, then you aren't thinking about the climbing. These two pit-falls walk hand in hand and dictate climber/belayer experience at the crag. The fastest way to help your climbing partner overcome these obstacles is to be the best belayer at the cliffs, bar none.

SouthernXposure teaches systems to keep climbers alive. Communication, and belaying properly are in an equal tie. The best way to be comfortable as a belayer on a Gri-gri is to practice with the device. Practice makes perfect. Ask your partner if they are clipping from underneath, or from the hip? Ask your partner to let you know when they are clipping. This way you know they are in a stance, are going to ask for rope, and two arm lengths can be advanced into the system.

With a leader feeding more rope is always better. Two large arm length slack pulls through the device is usually sufficient for even the lowest stance reaching the bolt hanger. Feed the slack, be generous, then pull in any extra cord once the rope is in its happy home. Any experienced climber who takes falls will gladly tell anyone listening, being short-roped is a far worse fate than having an extra two feet of slack and peeling off. Realistically, the extra slack will not be noticed during a fall versus getting the 'uncomfortable belay' short-rope while cruxing out.

Being known as the best belayer at the cliff is an honor. Climbers know who they trust, and those who just don't get the ramifications of a bad belay. Be attentive and understand your surroundings. Watch for the bad belayer, and talk to your climbing partners about what makes up a good belay. Focus on getting better all the time with the Gri-gri as it is your friend.

'Active' Rest Days are the best Days.

Belaying a Leader; out of your Comfort Zone.